Washer·Moderate·45–90 minutes·DIY $0–$130·Pro $150–$400
If the drain path is completely clear, the pump impeller turns freely, and the pump is still silent when the machine calls for drain, the fault is in the wiring harness, the motor control or the main board — and boards run $150–$400, are rarely returnable once fitted, and are not worth buying on a guess. A burnt-plastic smell from the pump area means the motor has failed and, more importantly, that something ran it stalled for a long time, so find the obstruction before fitting the new part. Water backing up out of the standpipe is a plumbing job, not an appliance repair.
Dryer·Moderate·45–120 minutes·DIY $5–$70·Pro $150–$400
On a gas dryer, anything past swapping the igniter, flame sensor or valve coils — adjusting the burner, opening the gas valve body, or touching the supply line — is licensed trade work in most jurisdictions and should not be attempted at home. On an electric dryer, get an electrician rather than an appliance technician if the outlet, cord or terminal block shows scorching, if a leg of the 240-volt supply is genuinely missing, or if the breaker trips the moment the element energises. And if every heating component tests good but the element still never gets power, the fault is in the timer or the control board — a diagnosis worth paying for rather than guessing at.
Dishwasher·Easy·30–60 minutes·DIY $0–$70·Pro $120–$400
If the filter, arms and inlet are all clear, the fill level and water temperature are correct, and the machine still leaves food on the dishes, the wash pump or its diverter valve is the likely fault — and on machines that route water between the upper and lower arms with a motorised diverter, a failed diverter starves one rack while the other cleans normally. Diagnosing that properly means running the service test cycle, which is worth paying for rather than replacing pumps on a guess. Grinding from the pump, or a burnt smell during the wash phase, means stop using the machine and get it looked at.
Oven & Range·Moderate·45–90 minutes plus preheat time·DIY $0–$80·Pro $150–$400
If the elements test good, the sensor matches its chart, the door seals and the oven still cannot hold a steady temperature, the relays on the control board that switch the elements are the usual remaining suspect — and a board is worth having confirmed by measurement before you buy one, since they run $150–$400 and are rarely returnable once fitted. On a gas oven, uneven baking that comes from a partially blocked burner tube, an incorrect orifice, or a burner that lights unevenly along its length is licensed trade work; a yellow, lifting or lazy flame in particular should be looked at by a qualified technician rather than adjusted at home.
Washer·Moderate·30–90 minutes·DIY $0–$120·Pro $150–$600
If the belt, coupler, lid switch and actuator all check out, the fault is in the motor, the motor control board, or the transmission. Motor control boards run $150–$350 in parts and transmission work on a top-loader often costs more than the machine is worth. A grinding or scraping sound during what spin you do get usually means the tub bearing has failed, which on most front-loaders requires splitting the outer tub — a repair that routinely runs $400–$600 and is frequently not worth doing on a machine over eight years old.
Dryer·Moderate·45–120 minutes·DIY $0–$80·Pro $100–$350
If the vent is clear end to end, the blower is intact and the machine still cannot dry a normal load in one cycle, the fault is in the heating circuit or the control — a partially open element, a drifting cycling thermostat, or a failing control board. Also call a professional if the vent run is inside a wall or ceiling cavity you cannot access; a duct cleaning service has cameras and 30-foot rods for exactly that. Gas valve work is licensed work in every state.
Dishwasher·Easy·20–60 minutes·DIY $0–$80·Pro $150–$350
If the drain path is clear end to end and the pump hums without moving water, the drain pump needs replacing — a $60–$150 part that is a moderate DIY job on some models and a machine-out, tip-it-over job on others. If the pump is completely silent during a forced drain and you have confirmed power at the machine, the control board is not commanding it, and that is a diagnosis worth paying for. A drain line that backs up into the sink as well as the dishwasher is a plumbing problem.
Oven & Range·Moderate·30–75 minutes·DIY $15–$110·Pro $180–$450
On a gas oven, the safety valve is the part downstream of the igniter, and replacing it means opening the gas circuit. That is licensed work in most jurisdictions and should not be attempted as a DIY repair — call a qualified technician or your gas utility. On any oven, a failed control board or relay board is a $150–$400 part that should be confirmed by measurement rather than bought on a guess. And if any part of the wiring, terminal block or range cord shows scorching, that is an electrician's job before it is an appliance job.
39 more guides cover the categories Estate builds. Browse the full library.