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Parts reference

Oven & Range parts

Ranges are the friendliest major appliance to repair: elements, igniters and sensors are cheap, exposed and held in with two screws. The parts that hurt are the control board and the door glass, and both are worth pricing before you order.

Parts priced
10
Price band
$15–$380
Suppliers stocking
5
Repair guides
10

Find your oven & range model number first

No supplier can sell you the right part without it, and the name printed on the front of the appliance is not it.

  1. On the frame behind the oven door

    Open the oven door and look at the front frame on the left or right edge, level with the door hinges. This is the standard spot on freestanding ranges.

  2. Behind or inside the bottom storage drawer

    Pull the warming or storage drawer all the way out — many ranges put the tag on the frame it slides into.

  3. Under the cooktop or on the side of the cabinet

    Slide-in and drop-in models often have it on the side panel or on the frame under the lift-up cooktop.

  4. On the back panel (wall ovens)

    On a built-in wall oven the tag can be on the side of the frame inside the cutout — visible when the door is open, or only once the unit is pulled forward.

What the tag looks like

10 to 15 characters, and the letter that matters is whether it is gas or electric. Also note the fuel type and the voltage before ordering elements: a 240-volt element in a 208-volt commercial-feed kitchen heats slowly and gets blamed on the oven.

What fails on a oven & range

Ordered most-replaced first. Prices are typical retail ranges for the part alone — not quotes, and not including labour. Confirm the part against your model number before you order.

Oven & Range replacement parts with symptom, install difficulty, typical retail price and expected lifespan
PartWhat you noticeInstallTypical priceLifespan
Bake elementCheck first: Run the oven and watch. A good element glows evenly end to end. Blisters, a bright hot spot or a visible break condemns it. Two screws at the back wall on most ovens.Oven never reaches temperature, or the broiler works and baking does not.easy20–40 minutes$20$65Aftermarket is fine10–15 years
Oven temperature sensorCheck first: The thin probe at the upper rear of the cavity. Measure resistance cold: around 1,080 ohms at room temperature is normal on most brands. Far off, or jumping around, means replace.Oven runs 50 degrees off, swings wildly, or throws an F3/F4 style code.easy20–40 minutes$15$50Either works10+ years
Oven igniter (gas)Check first: Watch it with the bottom panel out. It should glow white-orange and light the burner within 60 seconds. A weak orange glow that never lights is a worn igniter — it no longer draws enough current to open the safety valve.Gas oven takes forever to light, or never lights while the cooktop burners work fine.moderate45–90 minutes$25$90Either works5–10 years
Broil elementCheck first: Same test as the bake element, from the top. Let the oven cool completely first — the broil element holds heat far longer than it looks like it does.No browning under the broiler, or uneven baking on models that cycle the broiler.easy20–40 minutes$20$75Aftermarket is fine10–15 years
Surface burner igniter or spark module (gas)Check first: One burner clicking is usually a wet or cracked igniter on that burner — dry it thoroughly first. All burners clicking together points at the spark module or a switch stuck closed.One burner clicks forever without lighting, or every burner clicks constantly.moderate45–90 minutes$20$95Either works8–15 years
Radiant surface element (electric smoothtop)Check first: Reached from under the cooktop, which lifts on hinges on most ranges. Check the infinite switch too — a failed switch presents identically and costs less.One cooking zone stays cold or heats far slower than the others.moderate1–2 hours$25$100Either works10–15 years
Infinite switch (surface control)Check first: Behind the control panel. Test the element itself first for a short; if the element is good and the knob has no useful range, the switch contacts have welded.A burner is either full-blast or off, with nothing in between.moderate45–90 minutes$20$70Either works10–15 years
Oven door gasketCheck first: Look for flattened or missing sections of the braided rope seal, especially at the bottom corners. It clips into holes round the door or the cavity depending on brand.Heat escaping round the door, long preheats, and a control panel that gets hot.easy30–45 minutes$20$80Buy OEM8–15 years
Door hingesCheck first: Sold and replaced in pairs — one new hinge against one tired one twists the door. The springs are under real tension, so lock them before removing the door.Door will not sit square, sags open, or slams the last few inches.moderate1–2 hours$30$120Buy OEM10–15 years
Electronic control board or clock timerCheck first: Check the sensor and both elements before condemning the board. On older ranges these are frequently discontinued, and a rebuilt exchange board is often the only source — confirm availability before you strip the panel.Blank or scrambled display, buttons that do nothing, or an oven that ignores its own settings.moderate1–2 hours$90$380Buy OEM10–15 years

Easy · 4

Screwdriver, maybe a nut driver

Moderate · 6

Nut drivers, multimeter, a helper for heavy panels

Advanced · 0

Full socket set, multimeter, and somewhere to lay the machine down

4 of these 10 parts need nothing more than a screwdriver. Before you accept a repair quote on a oven & range, it is worth knowing which tier the part sits in — the labour is usually the larger half of the bill.

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OEM or aftermarket for a oven & range

Paying OEM for everything is waste. Saving on the wrong part costs you the repair twice.

Bake elements, broil elements, temperature sensors and surface igniters are commodity parts and aftermarket versions from a reputable brand are the sensible buy. Insist on OEM for the door glass, the hinges and the control board — glass is a safety component, hinge geometry sets the door seal, and boards are model-specific firmware.

Buy OEM on this appliance
Oven door gasket, Door hinges, Electronic control board or clock timer
Aftermarket is fine
Bake element, Broil element
Either works — buy on price
Oven temperature sensor, Oven igniter, Surface burner igniter or spark module, Radiant surface element, Infinite switch
Still under warranty?
Call the manufacturer before you buy anything. A covered repair costs nothing, and fitting a part yourself first can complicate the claim.
The full OEM-versus-aftermarket rules →

Where to buy oven & range parts

Shipping and returns are the terms each supplier publishes; where none is stated, we say so rather than guess. We are not affiliated with any of them and earn nothing from these listings.

Suppliers stocking Oven & Range parts, with phone numbers, shipping and returns terms
SupplierShippingReturnsPart finder
PartSelectpartselect.com1-888-738-4871Best for: Knowing the model number and wanting the install video with it.Free over $49365 daysModel number search
RepairClinicrepairclinic.com1-800-269-2609Best for: Not knowing which part failed yet.Not listed365 daysSymptom-based finder
Appliance Parts Prosappliancepartspros.com1-877-477-7278Best for: Wanting a technician on the phone before you order.Same-day dispatchNot listedParts diagrams by model
Sears Parts Directsearspartsdirect.com1-800-252-1698Best for: Kenmore and Craftsman, and older models others have dropped.Not listedNot listedModel lookup with exploded diagrams
Amazon Appliance Partsamazon.com1-888-280-4331Best for: Needing it tomorrow and cross-checking OEM against aftermarket.Prime next-dayEasy returns, no window statedKeyword search and reviews

Guides that use these parts

Tools, safety warnings and the steps in order, before you spend anything.

Next steps

Not sure the oven & range is worth the part?

Check what it is still worth before you spend. The Appliance Blue Book takes its age, brand tier and condition and tells you whether a repair still makes sense — or points you at someone local who can quote the job properly.

Part prices are our own editorial estimates of typical retail ranges for the part alone. They are not quotes, they exclude labour, and they vary by brand, model year and stock. Shipping and returns terms are those each supplier publishes and can change without notice. Always verify part compatibility with your specific model number before purchasing, and disconnect power before any inspection.