Parts reference
Washer parts
Washers fail in two places: the drain path and the things that hold the drum steady. Drain faults are cheap and quick. Bearings and boot seals are neither, and on a machine past eight years old they are usually the point where a repair stops making sense.
- Parts priced
- 9
- Price band
- $15–$190
- Suppliers stocking
- 5
- Repair guides
- 15
Find your washer model number first
No supplier can sell you the right part without it, and the name printed on the front of the appliance is not it.
Inside the door opening (front-load)
Open the door and look at the metal rim of the opening, usually at the bottom or on the left. You may have to fold the rubber boot back a little.
Under the lid rim (top-load)
Lift the lid and look at the underside of the rim, or at the top edge of the tub opening at the back.
On the back of the control console
Common on older top-loaders. The tag is on the rear face of the console, visible without moving the machine.
Behind the lower access panel
The same panel that hides the pump filter on a front-loader. Pop it off and check the frame behind it.
What the tag looks like
Expect 10 to 14 characters, often ending in a two-digit revision such as WTW5000DW1. That trailing revision matters — pumps and suspension parts changed mid-run on several popular models, so a parts desk will ask for the full string plus the serial number.
What fails on a washer
Ordered most-replaced first. Prices are typical retail ranges for the part alone — not quotes, and not including labour. Confirm the part against your model number before you order.
| Part | What you notice | Install | Typical price | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Drain pump | Machine hums at the drain step, water stays in the drum, cycle stalls with an F21, 5E or OE code. | moderate45–90 minutes | $35–$120Either works | 8–12 years |
| Lid switch or lid lock | Top-loader fills and agitates but will not spin or drain. | easy20–40 minutes | $20–$75Aftermarket is fine | 5–10 years |
| Door lock assembly (front-load) | Door will not latch, or the cycle refuses to start and the lock light blinks. | moderate30–60 minutes | $40–$140Either works | 6–10 years |
| Drive belt | Drum turns freely by hand, motor runs, nothing spins. | moderate45–90 minutes | $15–$50Aftermarket is fine | 8–12 years |
| Water inlet valve | Slow fill, no fill on one temperature, or the machine keeps filling after you switch it off. | moderate30–60 minutes | $25–$85Either works | 8–12 years |
| Shock absorbers or suspension rods | Machine walks across the floor, bangs the cabinet on spin, or aborts the spin entirely. | moderate1–2 hours | $30–$100Either works | 8–12 years |
| Motor coupler (direct-drive top-load) | Motor runs, drum does nothing, and there is a smell of burnt rubber underneath. | moderate1–2 hours | $15–$45Aftermarket is fine | 6–12 years |
| Door boot seal (front-load) | Water on the floor at the front of the machine, or mould in the folds that will not scrub out. | advanced2–3 hours | $60–$190Buy OEM | 8–12 years |
| Tub bearing kit | Rising roar on spin that sounds like a jet engine, plus rust streaks under the drum. | advanced4–6 hours | $35–$160Buy OEM | 10–14 years |
Easy · 1
Moderate · 6
Advanced · 2
1 of these 9 parts need nothing more than a screwdriver. Before you accept a repair quote on a washer, it is worth knowing which tier the part sits in — the labour is usually the larger half of the bill.
OEM or aftermarket for a washer
Paying OEM for everything is waste. Saving on the wrong part costs you the repair twice.
The door boot seal on a front-loader is the one part to insist on OEM: it is the sealing geometry that keeps water in the tub, and a copy that is a millimetre off leaks at the bottom of the door forever. Drain pumps, lid switches, belts, inlet valves and suspension rods are all fine aftermarket — most are made by the same handful of component suppliers.
- Buy OEM on this appliance
- Door boot seal, Tub bearing kit
- Aftermarket is fine
- Lid switch or lid lock, Drive belt, Motor coupler
- Either works — buy on price
- Drain pump, Door lock assembly, Water inlet valve, Shock absorbers or suspension rods
- Still under warranty?
- Call the manufacturer before you buy anything. A covered repair costs nothing, and fitting a part yourself first can complicate the claim.
Where to buy washer parts
Shipping and returns are the terms each supplier publishes; where none is stated, we say so rather than guess. We are not affiliated with any of them and earn nothing from these listings.
| Supplier | Shipping | Returns | Part finder |
|---|---|---|---|
| PartSelectpartselect.com1-888-738-4871 | Free over $49 | 365 days | Model number search |
| RepairClinicrepairclinic.com1-800-269-2609 | Not listed | 365 days | Symptom-based finder |
| Appliance Parts Prosappliancepartspros.com1-877-477-7278 | Same-day dispatch | Not listed | Parts diagrams by model |
| Sears Parts Directsearspartsdirect.com1-800-252-1698 | Not listed | Not listed | Model lookup with exploded diagrams |
| Amazon Appliance Partsamazon.com1-888-280-4331 | Prime next-day | Easy returns, no window stated | Keyword search and reviews |
Guides that use these parts
Tools, safety warnings and the steps in order, before you spend anything.
moderate
Washer Won't Drain
moderate
Washer Won't Spin
moderate
Washer Leaking Water
easy
Washer Smells Musty
moderate
Washer Shaking and Walking
easy
Washer Won't Start
easy
Washer Won't Fill With Water
moderate
Front-Load Washer Door Won't Open
easy
Washer Cycle Taking Far Too Long
moderate
Washer Won't Agitate
moderate
Washer Overfilling or Won't Stop Filling
easy
Washer Dispenser Not Emptying
easy
White Residue or Grey Marks on Washed Clothes
moderate
Washer Not Filling With Hot Water
moderate
Top-Load Washer Lid Won't Unlock
Next steps
Not sure the washer is worth the part?
Check what it is still worth before you spend. The Appliance Blue Book takes its age, brand tier and condition and tells you whether a repair still makes sense — or points you at someone local who can quote the job properly.