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Cost reference

Dryer repair cost

Dryer repair is the best-value call in the trade, and the one most often spent on the wrong thing. The parts that fail are among the cheapest in the house, and a large share of dryer faults are not faults at all — they are a blocked vent, which is a maintenance job that also happens to be the most consequential fire-safety spend in the building.

Typical repair
$100–$350
Diagnostic fee
$50–$100
New unit
$750
Expected life
12 yr
Pros listed
674
Front-loading washer and dryer in a bright laundry room

How much does dryer repair cost?

Most dryer repairs land between $100–$350 for parts and labour together, on top of a $50–$100 diagnostic fee that many shops credit against the repair if you approve the work the same day.

Thermal fuses, door switches, start switches and thermostats sit at the bottom — these are small parts and short visits. Elements, igniters, drive kits and gas valve coils fill the middle. There is no expensive tier on a dryer the way there is on a fridge or a washer, which is precisely why dryers are worth repairing longer than most appliances.

Cheapest priced job
$100–$200
Dearest priced job
$200–$400
Replace above
$375

Cheapest priced job: Full vent cleaning, machine to exterior hood. Dearest: Gas valve coil set. These are typical national ranges for the job, not quotes. Local rates vary and a written estimate for your own appliance is the only figure that binds anyone.

Dryer repair cost by job

8 named dryer jobs, each priced as a typical range covering parts and labour on a mainstream freestanding unit. These run roughly in the order a technician works through them, which is why full vent cleaning, machine to exterior hood leads rather than the cheapest line.

Typical Dryer repair cost by job, with what each range includes
JobTypical costWhat moves the number
Full vent cleaning, machine to exterior hood$100$200The highest-value maintenance spend on any appliance in the house.
Thermal fuse$100$200Always paired with a vent clean or it blows again within weeks.
Heating element (electric)$150$300Part is $20–$60; the rest is access and labor.
Igniter or flame sensor (gas)$150$300Licensed work. Ask the technician to leak-check the connection afterwards.
Drum rollers, belt, and idler pulley$150$350Replace as a set — the cabinet is already open.
Door switch or start switch$100$220Quick job; often the same-visit fix.
Cycling or high-limit thermostat$120$260Usually accompanied by a vent restriction that caused it.
Gas valve coil set$200$400Licensed only. Coils are replaced in pairs.

Ranges cover parts and labour on a mainstream dryer in a standard installation. A built-in, stacked or luxury unit sits above them, sometimes well above, because the access time and the parts channel are both different — a $750 mainstream replacement and a luxury equivalent do not have the same repair economics. Where a job is licensed work — gas, sealed refrigeration systems, or fixed wiring — the range assumes a correctly certified technician, because there is no legal cheaper version of it.

What drives the price on a dryer

Two households with the identical dryer fault can be quoted very differently, and the reasons are specific to this appliance rather than generic. These three account for most of the spread.

Gas or electric
An electric dryer that will not heat is an element, a fuse or a thermostat, and any appliance technician can do it. A gas dryer that will not heat is an igniter, a flame sensor or a valve coil set, and that is licensed work with a leak check afterwards. Say which you have when you call — it decides who is sent.
The vent run
A dryer venting through six feet of rigid duct behaves nothing like one venting thirty feet through a roof with two elbows. Long or crushed runs cause the overheating that blows fuses and cooks thermostats, so the repair and the vent clean are frequently quoted together. That pairing is not an upsell — refitting a fuse into a blocked system just blows the new one.
Stacked or pedestal installation
A stacked dryer has to come down before the cabinet opens, and a pedestal adds a lift. Both are pure labour time added to a repair whose parts are cheap, which is why the identical fuse costs noticeably more to replace on a stacked pair.

The cheap fix mistaken for an expensive one

The thermal fuse. A dryer that tumbles perfectly and produces no heat looks like a dead heating element or, on a gas machine, a dead valve. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows when the machine overheats — usually because of a blocked vent — and it is the cheapest part on the appliance. It is also the single most common reason a dryer stops heating.

Where the labour actually goes

The vent is where the money actually is. A full vent cleaning from the machine to the exterior hood is the highest-return maintenance spend on any appliance in the house: it restores drying times, it stops the overheating that destroys fuses and thermostats, and it removes the lint that makes a dryer a fire risk. Any no-heat repair that does not include checking the vent is half a repair.

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DIY versus pro, fault by fault

The same 10 dryer faults priced both ways. The DIY column is the part, assuming you diagnosed it correctly. The pro column includes the trip, the diagnosis, the hour and a warranty on the work.

All guides →
Dryer faults with the DIY parts cost and the professionally quoted cost for the same repair, plus difficulty and time estimate
FaultJobDIY partsQuoted pro
Dryer Not Heatingfuses, cut-offs, thermostats, igniters and elements are all inexpensive partsmoderate45–120 minutes$5$70$150$400
Dryer Takes Too Longcleaning is free; a metal duct and vent hood are inexpensivemoderate45–120 minutes$0$80$100$350
Dryer Squealing or Thumpinga roller, belt and idler kit covers most squealsmoderate60–150 minutes$25$80$150$350
Dryer Won't Startdoor switch, thermal fuse, start switch or beltmoderate30–75 minutes$5$60$130$400
Dryer Drum Not Turninga belt, idler and roller kit covers most of thesemoderate60–150 minutes$12$80$150$350
Dryer Shuts Off Mid-Cyclevent cleaning and sensor wiping are free; thermostats are cheapmoderate45–120 minutes$0$60$130$350
Dryer Smells Like Burningcleaning is free; a belt, rollers or a drum seal are the likely partsmoderate60–120 minutes$0$120$100$350
Dryer Trips the Breakeran element, cord or terminal block; the tests themselves cost nothingadvanced60–120 minutes$20$110$150$400
Dryer Getting Too Hotvent cleaning is free; thermostats, fuses and a blower wheel are cheapmoderate60–120 minutes$0$110$120$300
Dryer Tearing or Snagging Clothesseals, glides and a lint screen housing; a drum is not a DIY partmoderate45–90 minutes$10$120$150$350

How far a homeowner can take this

Cleaning the lint filter housing, clearing the vent duct, replacing a door switch and swapping a thermal fuse are homeowner work on an unplugged electric machine. Gas is where it stops. If you smell gas at any point, leave the machine alone and call the gas utility — not an appliance shop.

What the DIY column does not include

Your time, the tools, and the cost of being wrong. Buying the correct part needs the model number off the tag on the dryer, and a part fitted for a fault that was something else is money gone — most suppliers will not take back an electrical part once it has been installed. 4 of the 10 parts below need nothing more than a screwdriver, but knowing which one to buy is the hard half. If you are not confident in the diagnosis, the $50–$100 diagnostic fee is the cheaper purchase.

What the parts cost on their own

10 dryer parts at typical retail for the part alone — no labour, no shipping, no diagnosis. 4 of them are rated easy to fit. This is the number to hold a dryer quote against.

Full parts reference →
Dryer replacement parts with typical retail price, install difficulty and expected lifespan
PartTypical retailInstallLifespan
Thermal Fuse$5$20easyOne-time (blows when overheated)
Heating Element$20$60moderate8–15 years
Cycling and High-Limit Thermostats$10$40easy8–15 years
Drive Belt$12$45moderate8–14 years
Drum Rollers and Idler Pulley$20$70moderate7–12 years
Gas Igniter$20$65moderate6–12 years
Gas Valve Coil Kit$20$65moderate8–15 years
Door Switch$10$40easy8–15 years
Blower Wheel$20$70moderate10–15 years
Moisture Sensor Bars$15$50easy10+ years

Every dryer part priced here falls between $5–$70 for the component alone. Set that against the 8 job ranges above and the difference is the trip, the diagnosis and the access. Knowing the split does not make a dryer quote wrong — it tells you whether a second opinion is worth paying the $50–$100 diagnostic fee twice.

When replacing the dryer wins

The arithmetic first — a $750 appliance with a 12-year life — then the cases where the arithmetic is not the whole answer.

New unit

$750

Typical price for a mainstream dryer. A budget brand runs below it, a premium or built-in model well above.

Replace above

$375

Half the price of a new dryer. A quote above this usually means replacement is the better spend — that is 0 of the 8 jobs listed above.

Expected life

12 yr

10–13 years. Dryers are mechanically simple and often outlast the washer they were bought with, provided the vent run is short, rigid, and cleaned annually.

Cost per year new

$63

New price spread over expected life. If a repair buys more years than it costs at this rate, the repair is winning.

Replace a dryer when

  • The drum itself is cracked or rusted through at the seam.
  • A repair quote exceeds roughly half the price of a comparable new machine — around $375 on a mainstream model.
  • The unit is past year twelve and needs a motor or a control board.
  • It is a gas machine with a corroded burner assembly; partial repairs there are false economy.

The cost read on this appliance

Dryers are the appliance where repair wins longest, because the parts are cheap and the mechanism is simple. The honest replace triggers are a cracked drum, a failed motor on an already-old machine, or a cabinet where several drive components are worn at once. A no-heat fault on a sound machine is almost never a replace case at any age.

If the repair quote is more than half the price of an equivalent new unit, replacement is usually the better spend. Below half, repair almost always wins on cost per remaining year of service. Then check the age against expected lifespan. An appliance past roughly three-quarters of its expected life has little runway left to earn back a large repair, so the threshold drops as the machine gets older — on an old unit, a repair at a third of new price can still be the wrong call.

Early failures skew this. Long flexible-foil duct runs are what kill dryers early. Every extra bend adds restriction, restriction raises internal temperature, and heat is what ages elements, thermostats, belts and bearings. A machine on a 30-foot vent run does not live as long as the same machine on a 6-foot one.

Value my dryer

Before you call for a dryer quote

A dryer quote is only as good as the information behind it, and 674 businesses here list this appliance. Have these ready and the first visit is far more likely to be the only visit.

The one question worth answering first

Is it gas or electric, and when was the vent last cleaned all the way to the outside hood? Those two answers between them determine who is dispatched, what is on the van, and whether you are booking a repair or a maintenance visit that happens to fix the symptom.

  • Gas or electric — this determines who is allowed to do the work.
  • Whether the drum turns, whether it heats, or neither.
  • How long the vent run is and when it was last cleaned.
  • Any error code on the display.
  • Whether the breaker has tripped (an electric dryer on 240V can lose one leg and still tumble without heat).

Then ask every shop the same four questions: what is the diagnostic fee, is it credited if I approve the repair today, do you carry parts for this brand, and how long is the warranty on the work. Those four answers explain most of the spread between quotes, and none of them require the technician to have seen the appliance.

Dryer repair cost questions

How much does dryer repair cost?
Most dryer repairs land between $100–$350, covering parts and labour, on top of a $50–$100 diagnostic fee that many shops credit against the repair if you go ahead the same day. Thermal fuses, door switches, start switches and thermostats sit at the bottom — these are small parts and short visits. Elements, igniters, drive kits and gas valve coils fill the middle. There is no expensive tier on a dryer the way there is on a fridge or a washer, which is precisely why dryers are worth repairing longer than most appliances. These are typical national ranges compiled from the 8 priced jobs on this page, not quotes — local rates vary and a written estimate is the only number that binds anyone.
Is it worth repairing a dryer?
Compare the quote against $375 — half the $750 a typical new dryer costs. If the repair quote is more than half the price of an equivalent new unit, replacement is usually the better spend. Below half, repair almost always wins on cost per remaining year of service. Then check the age against expected lifespan. An appliance past roughly three-quarters of its expected life has little runway left to earn back a large repair, so the threshold drops as the machine gets older — on an old unit, a repair at a third of new price can still be the wrong call. Expected life on a dryer is about 12 years, so a new one works out at roughly $63 per year of service — that is the figure a repair has to beat. Dryers are the appliance where repair wins longest, because the parts are cheap and the mechanism is simple. The honest replace triggers are a cracked drum, a failed motor on an already-old machine, or a cabinet where several drive components are worn at once. A no-heat fault on a sound machine is almost never a replace case at any age.
What is the cheapest thing that goes wrong with a dryer?
The thermal fuse. A dryer that tumbles perfectly and produces no heat looks like a dead heating element or, on a gas machine, a dead valve. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device that blows when the machine overheats — usually because of a blocked vent — and it is the cheapest part on the appliance. It is also the single most common reason a dryer stops heating.
How much of a dryer repair bill is labour?
The vent is where the money actually is. A full vent cleaning from the machine to the exterior hood is the highest-return maintenance spend on any appliance in the house: it restores drying times, it stops the overheating that destroys fuses and thermostats, and it removes the lint that makes a dryer a fire risk. Any no-heat repair that does not include checking the vent is half a repair. Ask for parts and labour as separate lines on the estimate. The 10 dryer parts priced on this site run $5–$70 for the part alone, so the gap between that and the quoted job is the trip, the diagnosis and the hour.
Can I repair a dryer myself and save the labour?
Cleaning the lint filter housing, clearing the vent duct, replacing a door switch and swapping a thermal fuse are homeowner work on an unplugged electric machine. Gas is where it stops. If you smell gas at any point, leave the machine alone and call the gas utility — not an appliance shop. There are 10 step-by-step dryer guides on this site, and the DIY route on them runs $0–$120 against $100–$400 for the same faults done professionally.
What should I have ready before calling for a dryer repair quote?
The model and serial number from the tag on the appliance, and the answer to one diagnostic question: Is it gas or electric, and when was the vent last cleaned all the way to the outside hood? Those two answers between them determine who is dispatched, what is on the van, and whether you are booking a repair or a maintenance visit that happens to fix the symptom. 674 businesses in this directory list dryer work, so it is worth calling two or three and asking each the same questions.

Compare against other appliances

Same figures, every appliance type. The typical band is where most repairs land; the replace threshold is half the price of a new unit.

Full cost hub →
Typical repair cost, diagnostic fee and replace threshold for every appliance type
ApplianceTypical repairDiagnosticReplace above
Refrigerator$200$400$50$120$600
Washer$150$350$50$100$400
Dryer$100$350$50$100$375
Dishwasher$150$300$50$100$350
Oven & Range$150$450$50$120$500
Microwave$100$250$40$80$125
Garbage Disposal$85$250$40$90$100
Ice Maker$150$400$50$100$200
Freezer$150$400$50$120$300
Wine Cooler$200$600$60$130$250
Range Hood$150$400$50$100$175
Trash Compactor$150$450$50$110$400

Dryer costs on this page are our own editorial estimates of typical national ranges for repair jobs, retail parts and replacement units. They are not quotes, offers or guarantees, and no business listed on ApplianceRepairListing has set or approved them. Real pricing varies by market, brand, how the appliance is installed and when you book. Only a written estimate for your own dryer, from the technician who will do the work, is a real number. Dryer parts are among the most interchangeable in the trade, so brand rarely limits who can help — with one exception: heat-pump and condenser dryers from Bosch, Miele and LG use sealed refrigerant circuits and need a technician who explicitly services them. Disconnect power before inspecting any appliance, and treat gas and sealed refrigeration systems as licensed work.