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ApplianceRepairListing

Parts reference

Refrigerator parts

Almost every refrigerator failure that is worth fixing is a fan, a valve, a sensor or a seal — parts under $150 that you can reach with a screwdriver. The expensive failures are the compressor and the sealed refrigerant system, and those are the ones that decide whether the fridge is worth keeping at all.

Parts priced
10
Price band
$12–$340
Suppliers stocking
5
Repair guides
12

Find your refrigerator model number first

No supplier can sell you the right part without it, and the name printed on the front of the appliance is not it.

  1. Inside the fresh-food compartment, on the side wall

    Open the door and look down the left or right wall near the crisper drawers. On most Whirlpool, Frigidaire and GE units the tag sits at eye level once the door is open.

  2. On the ceiling of the fresh-food compartment

    Common on French-door models. Take the top shelf out and look straight up at the liner just behind the door seal.

  3. Behind the bottom kick plate

    The toe grille at the floor pops off by hand. The tag is on the frame behind it, usually on the left.

  4. On the back panel, near the compressor

    Last resort — it means pulling the fridge out. Worth it only if the interior tag has been scrubbed off.

What the tag looks like

A refrigerator model number is 8 to 15 characters mixing letters and digits, such as WRF535SWHZ00. The word on the front of the door is a series name, not a model number, and no supplier can search on it. Photograph the whole tag — the serial number below the model number is what tells a parts desk which production run you have when a part changed mid-model.

What fails on a refrigerator

Ordered most-replaced first. Prices are typical retail ranges for the part alone — not quotes, and not including labour. Confirm the part against your model number before you order.

Refrigerator replacement parts with symptom, install difficulty, typical retail price and expected lifespan
PartWhat you noticeInstallTypical priceLifespan
Evaporator fan motorCheck first: Hold the freezer door switch in with the door open. You should hear the fan spin up behind the rear freezer panel. Silence, or a grinding whir, points at the motor.Freezer is cold, fresh-food side is warm, and the fridge is unusually quiet.moderate45–90 minutes$40$120Either works8–14 years
Condenser fan motorCheck first: Pull the fridge out, take the rear access panel off at the bottom and watch while the compressor runs. The fan should turn whenever the compressor does. Clean the coils while you are in there — dirty coils kill these motors.Whole fridge runs warm and the compressor is hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch.moderate45–75 minutes$50$150Either works10–15 years
Start relay and overloadCheck first: Unplug the fridge, pull the relay off the side of the compressor and shake it. A rattle means the contacts have burned through. It is the cheapest part that fakes a dead compressor.Compressor clicks on, runs a few seconds, clicks off, and repeats every few minutes.easy15–30 minutes$12$45Either works8–15 years
Water inlet valveCheck first: Check the house shut-off and the water filter first — a filter left in for two years mimics a dead valve exactly. Then listen for a hum at the back when you press the dispenser paddle.No water at the dispenser, no ice, or a slow trickle that never fills a glass.moderate45–75 minutes$30$95Either works8–12 years
Defrost thermostatCheck first: It should show continuity when it is cold. Test it straight out of the freezer with a multimeter — if it reads open at freezer temperature, the defrost cycle never starts.Frost sheets over the back wall of the freezer and the fresh-food side slowly warms.moderate60–120 minutes$15$50Either works10–15 years
Door gasketCheck first: Close the door on a dollar bill and pull. If it slides out with no drag, that stretch of gasket is not sealing. Test all four sides — gaskets fail in one corner first.Condensation on the door frame, a motor that never seems to stop, and a warm spot on one shelf.easy45–90 minutes$45$140Buy OEM8–12 years
Defrost heaterCheck first: Behind the rear freezer panel, under the evaporator coil. Test for continuity with the fridge unplugged. Getting to it usually means defrosting the coil first, which takes most of a day.Same heavy frost as a failed thermostat, but the thermostat tests good.advanced2–3 hours$30$95Either works10–18 years
Ice maker assemblyCheck first: Most modules are sold complete because the individual switches are not serviceable. Confirm water is reaching it — pour half a cup into the mould by hand and see whether it ejects on the next cycle.Bin stays empty, or the maker turns out hollow, half-formed cubes.moderate30–60 minutes$80$260Buy OEM5–10 years
Main control boardCheck first: The board is the last thing to suspect, not the first. Rule out every sensor and motor it drives before you order one, because boards are rarely returnable once installed.Display is dead or nonsense, or several unrelated functions quit at once.moderate45–90 minutes$90$340Buy OEM10–15 years
Water filterCheck first: No diagnosis needed — it is a consumable. Run two gallons through after fitting to clear the carbon fines, or the first pitcher tastes like a fish tank.Slow dispenser, cloudy ice, or a filter light that has been on for months.easy5 minutes$25$65Either works6 months

Easy · 3

Screwdriver, maybe a nut driver

Moderate · 6

Nut drivers, multimeter, a helper for heavy panels

Advanced · 1

Full socket set, multimeter, and somewhere to lay the machine down

3 of these 10 parts need nothing more than a screwdriver. Before you accept a repair quote on a refrigerator, it is worth knowing which tier the part sits in — the labour is usually the larger half of the bill.

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OEM or aftermarket for a refrigerator

Paying OEM for everything is waste. Saving on the wrong part costs you the repair twice.

Buy the door gasket, the defrost control board and any inverter compressor part OEM — the gasket seals on a moulded profile that copies rarely match, and boards are firmware-matched. Fan motors, start relays, thermistors and water inlet valves are commodity parts where a reputable aftermarket brand does the same job for a third less.

Buy OEM on this appliance
Door gasket, Ice maker assembly, Main control board
Either works — buy on price
Evaporator fan motor, Condenser fan motor, Start relay and overload, Water inlet valve, Defrost thermostat, Defrost heater, Water filter
Still under warranty?
Call the manufacturer before you buy anything. A covered repair costs nothing, and fitting a part yourself first can complicate the claim.
The full OEM-versus-aftermarket rules →

Where to buy refrigerator parts

Shipping and returns are the terms each supplier publishes; where none is stated, we say so rather than guess. We are not affiliated with any of them and earn nothing from these listings.

Suppliers stocking Refrigerator parts, with phone numbers, shipping and returns terms
SupplierShippingReturnsPart finder
PartSelectpartselect.com1-888-738-4871Best for: Knowing the model number and wanting the install video with it.Free over $49365 daysModel number search
RepairClinicrepairclinic.com1-800-269-2609Best for: Not knowing which part failed yet.Not listed365 daysSymptom-based finder
Appliance Parts Prosappliancepartspros.com1-877-477-7278Best for: Wanting a technician on the phone before you order.Same-day dispatchNot listedParts diagrams by model
Sears Parts Directsearspartsdirect.com1-800-252-1698Best for: Kenmore and Craftsman, and older models others have dropped.Not listedNot listedModel lookup with exploded diagrams
Amazon Appliance Partsamazon.com1-888-280-4331Best for: Needing it tomorrow and cross-checking OEM against aftermarket.Prime next-dayEasy returns, no window statedKeyword search and reviews

Guides that use these parts

Tools, safety warnings and the steps in order, before you spend anything.

Next steps

Not sure the refrigerator is worth the part?

Check what it is still worth before you spend. The Appliance Blue Book takes its age, brand tier and condition and tells you whether a repair still makes sense — or points you at someone local who can quote the job properly.

Part prices are our own editorial estimates of typical retail ranges for the part alone. They are not quotes, they exclude labour, and they vary by brand, model year and stock. Shipping and returns terms are those each supplier publishes and can change without notice. Always verify part compatibility with your specific model number before purchasing, and disconnect power before any inspection.