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ApplianceRepairListing

Parts reference

Dryer parts

A dryer that tumbles but will not heat is almost always a $10 to $60 part, and almost always because the vent is blocked. Fix the airflow at the same time or you will be buying the same fuse again in six months.

Parts priced
10
Price band
$8–$85
Suppliers stocking
5
Repair guides
10

Find your dryer model number first

No supplier can sell you the right part without it, and the name printed on the front of the appliance is not it.

  1. Inside the door opening

    Open the door and look at the frame all the way round the opening, usually along the bottom edge.

  2. In the lint filter slot

    Pull the lint screen out and shine a light down the slot. Many Whirlpool and Maytag dryers put the tag on the wall of the housing.

  3. On the back panel

    Upper left or upper right of the rear sheet metal, near the vent outlet.

What the tag looks like

Usually 10 to 14 characters. The critical thing to note alongside it is gas or electric — the two share a cabinet and a model prefix but almost none of the heating parts, and ordering the wrong one is the most common return on a dryer repair.

What fails on a dryer

Ordered most-replaced first. Prices are typical retail ranges for the part alone — not quotes, and not including labour. Confirm the part against your model number before you order.

Dryer replacement parts with symptom, install difficulty, typical retail price and expected lifespan
PartWhat you noticeInstallTypical priceLifespan
Thermal fuseCheck first: Test for continuity with the dryer unplugged. No beep means blown. It is a one-shot safety device that trips because the machine overheated, so clean the whole vent run before you fit the new one. Never jumper it.Drum tumbles, air stays cold, clothes come out damp and warm at best.easy20–40 minutes$8$28Aftermarket is fineBlows once, then it is finished
Heating element (electric)Check first: Pull the element housing and look for a coil that has sagged and touched the case, or an obvious break. Confirm with a continuity test before ordering.No heat at all, and the thermal fuse tests good.moderate1–2 hours$25$85Aftermarket is fine8–15 years
Cycling and high-limit thermostatsCheck first: Both sit on the blower housing or heater box. At room temperature both should read continuity. They are sold as a kit with the thermal fuse for a few dollars more — take the kit.Heat comes on but runs too hot, or cuts out partway through the cycle.easy30–45 minutes$10$40Aftermarket is fine8–15 years
Drive beltCheck first: Unmistakable once the top or front comes off — the belt is snapped and lying in the base. Replace the idler pulley and check the drum rollers while it is open.Motor runs, drum does not turn, and the drum spins by hand with no resistance.moderate1–2 hours$12$45Aftermarket is fine8–14 years
Drum rollers and idler pulleyCheck first: Spin each roller by hand with the belt off. Any that grind, wobble or have a flat spot need replacing, and they go as a set — one fresh roller against three worn ones just moves the noise.Loud rumble or thumping that changes pitch with the load.moderate1–2 hours$20$70Aftermarket is fine7–12 years
Gas igniter (gas dryers)Check first: Watch a cycle start with the lower panel off. The igniter should glow bright orange within 30 seconds. If it glows and then dies without the burner lighting, the fault is the coils, not the igniter.Drum turns, no heat, and nothing glows when you watch through the burner port.moderate45–90 minutes$20$65Either works6–12 years
Gas valve coil kit (gas dryers)Check first: Classic intermittent fault: the coils work cold and drop out once warm. Sold in pairs — replace both. If you smell gas at any point, stop and call the gas utility.Igniter glows, gas never lights, or heat works for one load and not the next.moderate45–90 minutes$20$65Buy OEM8–15 years
Door switchCheck first: The drum light usually shares this switch. If the light stays on with the door shut, the switch is not making. Two screws behind the door strike on most machines.Dryer will not start, or stops the moment you nudge the door.easy20–40 minutes$10$40Aftermarket is fine8–15 years
Blower wheelCheck first: The plastic hub cracks and slips on the motor shaft, so the motor spins and the wheel does not. Feel for airflow at the exterior hood with the dryer running — almost none is the tell.Weak airflow at the outside vent plus a ticking or rattling from the base.moderate1–2 hours$20$70Either works10–15 years
Moisture sensor barsCheck first: Two metal strips just inside the drum opening. Wipe them with rubbing alcohol first — dryer sheet residue insulates them and produces exactly this fault for free.Auto-dry cycles end after ten minutes with the load still wet.easy30–45 minutes$15$50Either works10+ years

Easy · 4

Screwdriver, maybe a nut driver

Moderate · 6

Nut drivers, multimeter, a helper for heavy panels

Advanced · 0

Full socket set, multimeter, and somewhere to lay the machine down

4 of these 10 parts need nothing more than a screwdriver. Before you accept a repair quote on a dryer, it is worth knowing which tier the part sits in — the labour is usually the larger half of the bill.

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OEM or aftermarket for a dryer

Paying OEM for everything is waste. Saving on the wrong part costs you the repair twice.

Nearly everything on a dryer is a commodity part with published specifications, and aftermarket thermal fuses, thermostats, belts, rollers and idler pulleys from a known brand are the sensible buy. The exceptions are the gas valve coil set and the control board, where OEM is worth the premium because a marginal coil produces an intermittent no-heat fault that is miserable to chase.

Buy OEM on this appliance
Gas valve coil kit
Aftermarket is fine
Thermal fuse, Heating element, Cycling and high-limit thermostats, Drive belt, Drum rollers and idler pulley, Door switch
Either works — buy on price
Gas igniter, Blower wheel, Moisture sensor bars
Still under warranty?
Call the manufacturer before you buy anything. A covered repair costs nothing, and fitting a part yourself first can complicate the claim.
The full OEM-versus-aftermarket rules →

Where to buy dryer parts

Shipping and returns are the terms each supplier publishes; where none is stated, we say so rather than guess. We are not affiliated with any of them and earn nothing from these listings.

Suppliers stocking Dryer parts, with phone numbers, shipping and returns terms
SupplierShippingReturnsPart finder
PartSelectpartselect.com1-888-738-4871Best for: Knowing the model number and wanting the install video with it.Free over $49365 daysModel number search
RepairClinicrepairclinic.com1-800-269-2609Best for: Not knowing which part failed yet.Not listed365 daysSymptom-based finder
Appliance Parts Prosappliancepartspros.com1-877-477-7278Best for: Wanting a technician on the phone before you order.Same-day dispatchNot listedParts diagrams by model
Sears Parts Directsearspartsdirect.com1-800-252-1698Best for: Kenmore and Craftsman, and older models others have dropped.Not listedNot listedModel lookup with exploded diagrams
Amazon Appliance Partsamazon.com1-888-280-4331Best for: Needing it tomorrow and cross-checking OEM against aftermarket.Prime next-dayEasy returns, no window statedKeyword search and reviews

Guides that use these parts

Tools, safety warnings and the steps in order, before you spend anything.

Next steps

Not sure the dryer is worth the part?

Check what it is still worth before you spend. The Appliance Blue Book takes its age, brand tier and condition and tells you whether a repair still makes sense — or points you at someone local who can quote the job properly.

Part prices are our own editorial estimates of typical retail ranges for the part alone. They are not quotes, they exclude labour, and they vary by brand, model year and stock. Shipping and returns terms are those each supplier publishes and can change without notice. Always verify part compatibility with your specific model number before purchasing, and disconnect power before any inspection.