Skip to content
ApplianceRepairListing
EmergencySymptomsDIY GuidesCostsPartsBrands
Browse all listingsAppliance Blue Book
List your business

Parts reference

Appliance parts, priced honestly

The parts that actually fail on each appliance, what they typically cost, how hard they are to fit, and where to buy them. Start with your model number — without it, no supplier can sell you the right part.

Parts priced
103
Appliance types
12
Suppliers
5
Price band
$5–$380
Dishwasher and garbage disposal in a bright kitchen

First, find your model number

Every parts supplier searches on the model number. The name on the front of the appliance is a series name and returns nothing. Here is where the tag hides.

Step 01

Open the door and look at the edges

On most appliances the tag sits on a surface you can only see with the door open — the door rim, the tub edge, or the frame behind it. Take a torch. The tags are printed small and often faded.

Step 02

Photograph the whole tag

Not just the model number. The serial number underneath it tells a parts desk which production run you have, which matters whenever a part changed partway through a model’s life. A phone photo beats a transcription every time.

Step 03

Search the full string, revision included

A model number like WRF535SWHZ00 ends in a revision code. Drop it and you may be shown a part that fitted the first production run and not yours. If a search returns nothing, you have probably read a shorter series code instead.

Where the model number tag is located on each appliance type
ApplianceLook here firstThen checkTag length
RefrigeratorInside the fresh-food compartment, on the side wallOpen the door and look down the left or right wall near the crisper drawers. On most Whirlpool, Frigidaire and GE units the tag sits at eye level once the door is open.On the ceiling of the fresh-food compartment8–15 chars
WasherInside the door opening (front-load)Open the door and look at the metal rim of the opening, usually at the bottom or on the left. You may have to fold the rubber boot back a little.Under the lid rim (top-load)10–14 chars
DryerInside the door openingOpen the door and look at the frame all the way round the opening, usually along the bottom edge.In the lint filter slot10–14 chars
DishwasherOn the edge of the inner doorOpen the door and look at the side or top edge of the door panel itself — the surface you only see when the door is open. This is where most brands put it.On the tub rim10–14 chars
Oven & RangeOn the frame behind the oven doorOpen the oven door and look at the front frame on the left or right edge, level with the door hinges. This is the standard spot on freestanding ranges.Behind or inside the bottom storage drawer10–15 chars
MicrowaveOn the back or side of the cabinet (countertop)Turn the unit round. The tag is usually a foil label on the rear sheet metal or the right-hand side.Inside the door frame (over-the-range)8–12 chars
Garbage DisposalOn the side of the motor housingUnder the sink, on the black or grey body of the unit. A torch and a phone camera held underneath beats trying to read it directly.On the bottom of the unitVaries
Ice MakerInside the storage binEmpty the bin and look at the side or rear wall of the liner. This is the usual spot on undercounter and countertop machines.Behind the front kick plate or grille8–14 chars
FreezerOn the exterior side or back (chest freezer)Look at the left-hand exterior wall near the back, or on the rear panel by the compressor hump.Inside on the side wall (upright)8–14 chars
Trash CompactorOn the frame behind the drawerPull the drawer out to its stop, or remove it entirely, and look at the cabinet frame on the left or right side.On the side of the cabinet8–12 chars
Wine CoolerInside on the rear or side wallTake the bottom shelf out and look at the back wall near the floor of the cabinet, or the left liner.Behind the lower kick plate or grille8–14 chars
Range HoodBehind the grease filtersPull the mesh or baffle filters out and look up into the cavity. The tag is usually on the underside of the hood body — this is the standard location.Inside the chimney cover8–14 chars
Advertisement

The parts that fail most

The three most-replaced parts on each appliance, with what you notice when they go. Prices are typical retail ranges for the part alone — not quotes, and not including labour.

Repair guides →
The three most commonly replaced parts for each appliance type, with symptom, install difficulty and typical retail price
AppliancePartWhat you noticeInstallTypical price
RefrigeratorEvaporator fan motorFreezer is cold, fresh-food side is warm, and the fridge is unusually quiet.moderate$40–$120
RefrigeratorCondenser fan motorWhole fridge runs warm and the compressor is hot enough to be uncomfortable to touch.moderate$50–$150
RefrigeratorStart relay and overloadCompressor clicks on, runs a few seconds, clicks off, and repeats every few minutes.easy$12–$45
WasherDrain pumpMachine hums at the drain step, water stays in the drum, cycle stalls with an F21, 5E or OE code.moderate$35–$120
WasherLid switch or lid lockTop-loader fills and agitates but will not spin or drain.easy$20–$75
WasherDoor lock assembly (front-load)Door will not latch, or the cycle refuses to start and the lock light blinks.moderate$40–$140
DryerThermal fuseDrum tumbles, air stays cold, clothes come out damp and warm at best.easy$8–$28
DryerHeating element (electric)No heat at all, and the thermal fuse tests good.moderate$25–$85
DryerCycling and high-limit thermostatsHeat comes on but runs too hot, or cuts out partway through the cycle.easy$10–$40
DishwasherDrain pumpStanding water in the sump at the end of every cycle, often with a buzz at the drain step.moderate$35–$120
DishwasherSpray armTop rack comes out dirty, or grit sprayed back onto everything.easy$15–$55
DishwasherDoor latch and switch assemblyCycle will not start, or stops the moment the door is nudged.easy$20–$80
Oven & RangeBake elementOven never reaches temperature, or the broiler works and baking does not.easy$20–$65
Oven & RangeOven temperature sensorOven runs 50 degrees off, swings wildly, or throws an F3/F4 style code.easy$15–$50
Oven & RangeOven igniter (gas)Gas oven takes forever to light, or never lights while the cooktop burners work fine.moderate$25–$90
MicrowaveDoor interlock switch setNothing happens when you press start, or the unit trips the breaker when the door opens.moderate$10–$40
MicrowaveTurntable motorPlate sits still while the microwave heats, so food cooks in stripes.easy$15–$50
MicrowaveTurntable coupler and roller ringPlate wobbles, sticks, or turns in fits.easy$8–$30
Garbage DisposalSplash guard / baffleWater spitting back up out of the drain, or a persistent smell that cleaning does not fix.easy$8–$28
Garbage DisposalDischarge tube and gasketDrip under the sink that appears only while the disposal is running.easy$8–$30
Garbage DisposalSink mounting assemblyUnit hangs loose, twists when you load it, or leaks at the top of the flange.moderate$15–$50
Ice MakerWater filterThin, hollow or cloudy cubes, and production that has quietly halved.easy$25–$70
Ice MakerWater inlet valveMachine cycles but no water enters the mould, or it overfills and freezes solid.moderate$30–$100
Ice MakerIce maker module or assemblyIce never ejects, or the maker fills and refills without harvesting.moderate$90–$280
FreezerStart relay and overloadCompressor clicks and stops repeatedly, and the box slowly warms.easy$12–$45
FreezerDoor gasketIce building on the lid or door frame, and a lid that no longer pulls itself shut.easy$40–$140
FreezerTemperature control thermostatFreezer runs continuously, or never runs at all, regardless of the dial setting.moderate$25–$90
Trash CompactorDrive beltMotor runs, ram does not move, and there is a slipping noise from the base.moderate$15–$60
Trash CompactorDirectional or limit switchRam travels down and stops there, or the cycle never ends.moderate$20–$70
Trash CompactorDrawer latch and safety switchUnit will not run with the drawer closed, or runs with it open.moderate$20–$75
Wine CoolerCooling fanCabinet drifts warm and the unit is silent, or one zone of a dual-zone unit runs warm.easy$20–$70
Wine CoolerThermoelectric (Peltier) moduleFans run, the back of the cabinet is warm, and the inside never gets cold.moderate$30–$100
Wine CoolerDoor gasketCondensation on the glass, a cabinet that never settles at its set point, and a compressor that never rests.easy$30–$110
Range HoodGrease filter (mesh or baffle)Poor extraction, grease on the cabinet fronts, and a fan working audibly harder.easy$15–$65
Range HoodCharcoal filter (ductless)Cooking smells linger even with the fan on full.easy$15–$55
Range HoodBlower wheelRattle, vibration, or a marked drop in airflow with clean filters.moderate$20–$80

Easy

42 of 103 parts

Nothing structural comes apart. Unplug it, swap the part, put the panel back. Most people finish inside half an hour.

Screwdriver, maybe a nut driver

Moderate

51 of 103 parts

One or two panels come off and you test before you buy. A multimeter set to continuity settles nearly every one of these.

Nut drivers, multimeter, a helper for heavy panels

Advanced

10 of 103 parts

Sealed refrigerant, gas connections, or the machine on its back. Price the job with a technician before you order the part.

Full socket set, multimeter, and somewhere to lay the machine down

Roughly 41% of the parts listed on this site are rated easy — no panel comes off, no multimeter needed. That is the honest reason to check the part price before you accept a replacement quote.

OEM or aftermarket

The trade-off is real in both directions. Paying OEM for a drive belt is waste; saving on a control board or a door seal costs you the repair twice.

What OEM actually buys you

An OEM part is the one the manufacturer specifies, in manufacturer packaging, and it is usually made by the same component supplier who built the original. What you are paying for is a guaranteed dimensional and firmware match, a manufacturer warranty whose length you should check before you buy rather than assume, and a part number you can verify against the exploded diagram for your exact model. Our own estimate, not a surveyed figure: the premium over a comparable aftermarket part typically runs 30 to 60 percent.

What aftermarket actually is

Aftermarket covers an enormous quality range, from a second production line at the same factory to the cheapest possible copy. The signal to look for is a stated part number cross-reference and a published warranty; the warning sign is a marketplace listing whose only claim is “compatible with” a list of brands. “Genuine replacement” is marketing language, not a specification.

Which appliance part categories to buy OEM and which are safely aftermarket
Part categoryBuyWhy
Control and logic boardsBuy OEMThe firmware is matched to the model and revision. A board that is one revision out either refuses to run the machine or runs it wrongly, and boards are almost never returnable once installed.
Gaskets, boot seals and door sealsBuy OEMThe seal is a moulded profile, not a strip of rubber. A copy that is a millimetre off in section leaks or ices up, and you will not find out until the machine has run a dozen cycles.
Safety interlocks and gas componentsBuy OEMMicrowave door switches, gas valve coils and compactor safety switches are the parts that stop the appliance hurting someone. The saving on a copy is a few dollars.
Sealed-system and compressor partsBuy OEMRefrigerant work is EPA-regulated and the components are matched to the charge. If you are this far in, you are hiring a technician anyway, and they will specify the part.
Thermal fuses, thermostats and sensorsAftermarket is fineThese are published-spec commodity components, frequently made in the same factories as the branded part. Match the rating on the old part and buy on price and warranty.
Belts, rollers, pulleys and couplersAftermarket is finePurely mechanical, dimensionally specified, and cheap enough that buying a spare alongside is reasonable. Reputable aftermarket kits often include the neighbouring wear parts.
Pumps, valves and fan motorsEither worksFit is what matters, not badging. A known aftermarket brand at 30–50% less is a sound buy; an unbranded marketplace listing with no part number is not.
Filters, lamps and consumablesEither worksBuy on certification rather than brand. For water filters that means an NSF/ANSI certification mark on the packaging — without one you are paying for a plastic housing and hope.

One thing worth knowing about warranties

In the United States the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act stops a manufacturer from conditioning warranty coverage on the use of its own branded parts unless it supplies those parts free of charge. It can still deny a specific claim if it can show the aftermarket part caused the failure — so keep the receipt, and note what you fitted and when. If the appliance is still inside its original warranty, call the manufacturer before you buy anything at all.

Where to buy

5 national suppliers, with the shipping and returns terms each one publishes. Where a supplier does not state a term, we say so rather than guess. We are not affiliated with any of them and earn nothing from these listings.

Appliance parts suppliers with phone numbers, shipping and returns terms, part finder type and appliance coverage
SupplierShippingReturnsPart finderTypes
PartSelectpartselect.com1-888-738-4871Best for: Knowing the model number and wanting the install video with it.Free over $49365 daysModel number search11
RepairClinicrepairclinic.com1-800-269-2609Best for: Not knowing which part failed yet.Not listed365 daysSymptom-based finder10
Appliance Parts Prosappliancepartspros.com1-877-477-7278Best for: Wanting a technician on the phone before you order.Same-day dispatchNot listedParts diagrams by model8
Sears Parts Directsearspartsdirect.com1-800-252-1698Best for: Kenmore and Craftsman, and older models others have dropped.Not listedNot listedModel lookup with exploded diagrams10
Amazon Appliance Partsamazon.com1-888-280-4331Best for: Needing it tomorrow and cross-checking OEM against aftermarket.Prime next-dayEasy returns, no window statedKeyword search and reviews12

Shipping and returns terms are those each supplier publishes and can change without notice. Confirm the current terms at checkout, and confirm the part fits your model number before you pay — a returns window is worth little if the part was never going to fit.

Parts by appliance

Full failure list, model number locations and stocking suppliers for one appliance at a time.

Refrigerator10 parts · 5 suppliersWasher9 parts · 5 suppliersDryer10 parts · 5 suppliersDishwasher10 parts · 5 suppliersOven & Range10 parts · 5 suppliersMicrowave9 parts · 5 suppliersGarbage Disposal6 parts · 4 suppliersIce Maker8 parts · 5 suppliersFreezer8 parts · 5 suppliersTrash Compactor8 parts · 3 suppliersWine Cooler8 parts · 1 suppliersRange Hood7 parts · 3 suppliers

Fit it yourself

108 step-by-step guides for the faults these parts cause, with the tools and the safety warnings up front. Grouped by appliance, in the order they appear above.

All guides →
Refrigerator Not Cooling45–90 minutesRefrigerator Leaking Water30–90 minutesRefrigerator Freezing Food30–60 minutesRefrigerator Water Dispenser Not Working30–60 minutesRefrigerator Running Constantly30–60 minutesRefrigerator Making Noise20–60 minutesWasher Won't Drain45–90 minutesWasher Won't Spin30–90 minutesWasher Leaking Water30–90 minutesWasher Smells Musty45–90 minutes plus a cleaning cycleWasher Shaking and Walking30–90 minutesWasher Won't Start15–45 minutesDryer Not Heating45–120 minutesDryer Takes Too Long45–120 minutesDryer Squealing or Thumping60–150 minutesDryer Won't Start30–75 minutesDishwasher Not Cleaning30–60 minutesDishwasher Not Draining20–60 minutesDishwasher Leaking30–90 minutesDishwasher Not Drying Dishes15–45 minutesOven Not Heating Evenly45–90 minutes plus preheat timeOven Not Heating At All30–75 minutesGas Burner Won't Light20–45 minutesOven Door Locked After Self-Clean30 minutes to 3 hours including cooldownElectric Burner Not Working20–60 minutesMicrowave Runs But Doesn't Heat15–30 minutes for safe checksMicrowave Sparking Inside15–30 minutesMicrowave Turntable Not Turning10–40 minutesGarbage Disposal Jammed15–30 minutesGarbage Disposal Leaking30–90 minutesIce Maker Not Making Ice30–90 minutes plus a 24-hour waitIce Maker Slow or Making Small Cubes20–45 minutes plus a 24-hour waitFreezer Frost Buildup45–90 minutes plus a 24-hour defrostFreezer Not Freezing45–90 minutesTrash Compactor Won't Compact45–120 minutesWine Cooler Not Cooling30–75 minutesRange Hood Fan Weak or Not Venting45–120 minutesRange Hood Light Not Working15–45 minutesRefrigerator Door Seal Failing45–120 minutesWasher Won't Fill With Water20–60 minutesFront-Load Washer Door Won't Open20–60 minutesDryer Drum Not Turning60–150 minutesDryer Shuts Off Mid-Cycle45–120 minutesDishwasher Soap Dispenser Not Opening20–60 minutesDishwasher Spray Arm Not Spinning20–45 minutesDishwasher Door Won't Latch or Stay Closed30–90 minutesOven Door Won't Close Properly45–120 minutesOven Broiler Not Working30–75 minutesMicrowave Door Won't Close or Latch15–30 minutes for safe checksMicrowave Keypad Not Responding15–30 minutes for safe checksGarbage Disposal Won't Turn On15–45 minutesGarbage Disposal Smells20–45 minutesGarbage Disposal Draining Slowly or Backing Up45–90 minutesIce Maker Leaking or Overflowing30–90 minutes plus a 24-hour watchIce Tastes or Smells Bad30–60 minutes plus two discarded batchesIce Cubes Clumping Into a Solid Block30–60 minutes plus a 24-hour waitFreezer Door or Lid Not Sealing45–120 minutesFreezer Making Noise20–60 minutesChest Freezer Lid Won't Open15–45 minutesTrash Compactor Smells45–90 minutesTrash Compactor Drawer Stuck30–90 minutesTrash Compactor Ram Stuck Down60–150 minutesWine Cooler Temperature Swinging30–75 minutes plus a 48-hour logWine Cooler Noisy or Vibrating20–60 minutesWine Cooler Sweating30–60 minutesRange Hood Won't Turn On30–75 minutesRange Hood Loud or Rattling45–120 minutesRange Hood Dripping Grease60–150 minutesRefrigerator Warm But Freezer Cold45–90 minutesRefrigerator Smells Bad60–120 minutes plus airing timeRefrigerator Light Not Working20–45 minutesRefrigerator Sweating on the Outside30–60 minutes plus a few days of observationRefrigerator Beeping That Won't Stop20–45 minutesDishwasher Won't Start30–75 minutesDishwasher Not Filling With Water45–90 minutesDishwasher Smells Bad45–90 minutes plus a cleaning cycleWhite Film on Dishes30 minutes plus a test cycleDishwasher Making Noise30–75 minutesDryer Smells Like Burning60–120 minutesDryer Trips the Breaker60–120 minutesDryer Getting Too Hot60–120 minutesDryer Tearing or Snagging Clothes45–90 minutesGas Burner Burning Yellow45–90 minutesElectric Burner Stays On High45–90 minutesOven Control Panel Not Responding45–90 minutesFreezer Won't Turn On30–75 minutesFreezer Leaking Water45–90 minutesWasher Cycle Taking Far Too Long45–90 minutes plus a test cycleWasher Won't Agitate45–120 minutesWasher Overfilling or Won't Stop Filling30–90 minutesWasher Dispenser Not Emptying30–60 minutesWhite Residue or Grey Marks on Washed Clothes45–90 minutes plus a cleaning cycleWasher Not Filling With Hot Water30–75 minutesTop-Load Washer Lid Won't Unlock20–75 minutesOver-the-Range Microwave Vent Fan Not Working30–75 minutesMicrowave Light Not Working15–45 minutesMicrowave Heating Unevenly30–60 minutesMicrowave Shuts Off Mid-Cycle20–45 minutes for safe checksMicrowave Making a Loud Noise20–45 minutesIce Maker Makes Ice But Won't Dispense It30–75 minutesIce Maker Won't Stop20–60 minutesCountertop Ice Maker Not Making Ice30–90 minutes plus a descaling cycleRange Hood Fan Won't Turn Off or Starts On Its Own30–75 minutesDowndraft Vent Won't Rise or Lower45–120 minutesGarbage Disposal Loud, Rattling or Screeching20–60 minutesTrash Compactor Loud, Grinding or Squealing45–120 minutesWine Cooler Freezing Bottles30–75 minutes plus a 24-hour checkEverything Is Freezer Burned30–60 minutes plus a 48-hour log

Questions people ask before ordering

Where is the model number on an appliance?
It is on a printed or foil tag on the appliance itself, never on the front of the door. On refrigerators and freezers look inside on the side wall or behind the bottom kick plate. On washers and dryers look inside the door opening or in the lint filter slot. On dishwashers look at the edge of the inner door. On ranges look at the frame behind the oven door. On range hoods pull the grease filters out and look up into the cavity.
Is the model number the same as the serial number?
No. The model number identifies which appliance you own and is what a parts supplier searches on. The serial number identifies your individual unit and tells a parts desk which production run it came from, which matters when a part changed partway through a model's life. Photograph the whole tag so you have both.
Are OEM appliance parts worth the extra money?
For control boards, door gaskets and seals, safety interlocks and sealed-system components, yes — fit tolerance or firmware matching is what makes those parts work, and a near-fit fails again. For thermal fuses, thermostats, belts, rollers and most pumps and valves, a reputable aftermarket part typically costs 30 to 50 percent less and does the same job, often from the same factory.
Does fitting an aftermarket part void my appliance warranty?
Not on its own. In the United States the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act stops a manufacturer from conditioning warranty coverage on the use of branded parts unless it supplies those parts free of charge. A manufacturer can still deny a specific claim if it can show the aftermarket part caused the failure, so keep your receipts and note what you fitted and when.
How much do common appliance parts cost?
Most parts that actually fail are inexpensive. Thermal fuses, thermostats, sensors and switches run roughly $8 to $50. Fan motors, drain pumps and water inlet valves run roughly $25 to $150. Control boards and circulation motors are the expensive tier at roughly $90 to $380. Those are typical retail ranges for the part alone, across 103 parts on this site — they exclude labour and vary by brand and model.
Should I test the part before I buy a replacement?
Yes, and it costs about twenty dollars to be able to. A multimeter set to continuity settles most electrical diagnoses on a dryer, washer, oven or dishwasher in a couple of minutes, and it is the difference between replacing the part that failed and replacing three parts hoping one of them was it. Always unplug the appliance before testing.

Part prices on this page are our own editorial estimates of typical retail ranges for the part alone. They are not quotes, they exclude labour, and they vary by brand, model year and stock. Supplier information was compiled from publicly available sources and each supplier’s published terms; we are not affiliated with any parts supplier and earn nothing from these listings. Always verify part compatibility with your specific model number before purchasing.